During Sean Connery's tenure as the world's favourite secret agent, he often found himself assigned to missions in warm environments. Thankfully, he was able to call upon his tailor, Anthony Sinclair, to provide appropriate clothing to suit the various locations. From Dr No (1962) to Diamonds Are Forever (1971), Sinclair made a number of lightweight suits that allowed Connery to stay cool whilst looking sharp.
007 feels the heat in Jamaica. Dr No (1962)
To celebrate the 60th anniversary of the 007 film franchise, Anthony Sinclair has recreated a number of Connery's original suits to commemorate six decades of Bond style. The collection includes the first lightweight suit worn by Bond on screen (in the original movie, Dr No). Having arrived in the tropical climate of Jamaica wearing a grey flannel suit, he must've been relieved to change into lightweight tailoring.
Connery cooler in glen check suit. Dr No (1962)
The grey glen check suit was produced in a plain-weave cloth, with the open structure of the fabric allowing the cloth to breathe and the suit to feel cool to wear. It is a classic example of Sinclair's "Conduit Cut", having a natural shoulder, roped sleevehead, a degree of chest drape and gentle suppression on the waist.
The original Conduit Cut. Dr No (1962)
As with most of Sinclair's 60's spy-wear, the trousers have pleated fronts with tab and button side adjusters on the waist, known as DAKS Tops. The outfit is completed with a pale-blue Cocktail Cuff shirt and a navy grenadine tie.
Pleated pants with DAKS Tops. Dr No (1962)
Sinclair continued to dress Connery for the four subsequent Bond movies, but both actor and tailor took a one-film break as George Lazenby was awarded the license to kill for "On Her Majesty's Secret Service" (1969). The duo returned for "Diamonds Are Forever" (1971), and Sinclair was tasked with making another lightweight suit for Bond's Las Vegas wardrobe.
It's time to be Bond again. Diamonds Are Forever (1971)
To beat the dry desert heat of Vegas, a lightweight worsted cloth was chosen in a shade of grey much lighter in colour than those worn by Bond in the previous decade. Whilst the shape of the suit still bears the hallmarks of Sinclair's classic Conduit Cut, the lapels had grown in scale and the fit was somewhat closer to the body.
Conduit Cut suit and Cocktail Cuff shirt in Diamonds Are Forever (1971)
Another marked change was the removal of pleats from the trousers. Connery had previously worn plain fronts on a pair of cavalry twills in Goldfinger, but the cut had become slightly slimmer for those in Diamonds Are Forever - balancing perfectly with the top half of the suit.
Plain front pants with DAKS Tops
Both the first and the final lightweight worsted Conduit Cut suits made by Anthony Sinclair for Connery as Bond have now been recreated and are available to order with the original style details or your own interpretation of the designs.